NATURAL DYES

I.  Why dye?
    A.  Beauty/ self-expression
    B.  Signify rank, status, wealth

II.  Brief history of dyes
    A.  First humans + berries = first dyes
    B.  Different plants = different colors
    C.  Middle Ages & Renaissance - valuable commodities, easy to transport
    D.  Development of synthetic dyes

III.  Ingredients
    A.  Fiber -- natural fibers are best: wool, cotton, silk, ramie, linen...
    B.  Plant (or insect) matter
    C.  Mordant-- helps fibers "grab" and keep dye-- often toxic metals
            1. iron- makes colors darker
            2. alum, chrome, tin- brightens or changes color shade
            3. copper (sulfate)- greener
            4. urea- human urine is an easily accessible mordant!

IV.  Process-- record all your steps
    A.  Wash fiber and soak- to remove oil, dirt, lanolin, starch
    B.  Gather plant- approx. 1 lb. per 1 lb. of fiber, be responsible
    C.  Mordant- may be done before or after dyeing, soak or simmer
    D.  Dyebath- chop up plant, then boil, simmer, or ferment
    E.  Additives-- salt, vinegar, ammonia...
    F.  Rinse and dry

V.  Which plants to use
    A.  Results can be unpredictable, varying with many factors
    B.  COLORS:
        1. Red-- madder, cochineal
        2. Orange/ Gold/ Yellow-- onion skins, goldenrod, turmeric, safflower, saffron, henna
        3. Green-- sedges, or mix yellow and blue
        4. Blue-- logwood, woad, indigo
        5. Purple-- some lichens, berries
        6. Brown/ Black-- coffee, tea, pecan hulls, iron mordant
    C.  Sources:  nature, garden, craft stores, dyeing supply-houses, grocery store

Back to Syllabus



Information compiled by Monique Reed.  Last updated 04/08/1999 by Amanda Neill.